Friday, December 25, 2020

K2 Winter Madness: Could This Be The Year?

  K2 Winter Madness: Could This Be The Year?

The winter season has just begun and in the Karakoram a large group of Sherpas, clients and professional mountaineers are descending on K2 Base Camp (or are already there), determined to solve the last great problem of mountaineering on the world’s 8,000-meter peaks: the first winter ascent of K2, the 8,611-meter Pakistani giant.

While the largest expedition is still yet to arrive, two small teams are already in action on the Abruzzi Route, the “normal” route used during the historic first ascent of K2, by an Italian team in 1954.

The players, the risks, the likelihood of success—read on for a preview of what is to come on K2 this season.

The Teams

The first team—Icelandic climber John Snorri, and Pakistani climbers Ali Sadpara and Sajid Sadpara—arrived on the mountain and began climbing  on December 1. (According to the meteorological calendar, winter begins on December 1, whereas according to the astronomical calendar—the one generally accepted by the climbing community for winter ascents— winter begins on December 21.) This team has already reached up to 6,000 meters, Camp 1, fixing ropes along the initial labyrinthine glacier and the first slopes on the southeast Abruzzi Spur. Ali Sadpara is the most experienced winter climber of the bunch, having bagged the first no-O2 winter ascent of Nanga Parbat in 2016, with Simone Moro and Alex Txikon, and having attempted Everest in winter. He has also climbed the other four Karakorum 8,000ers in various seasons. Sajid, Ali’s son, is the youngest Pakistani to have climbed K2.

On December 23, just after arriving in Base Camp, another trio of strong Nepalese climbers—Mingma Gyale Sherpa, Dawa Tenzin Sherpa and Kili Pemba Sherpa—took advantage of the favorable weather and, in a flash, equipped over 600 meters of the route, up to Camp 2, to the altitude of about 6,700 meters. This quick early progress shows the formidable strength and skill of this Sherpa team.

As mentioned, the largest expedition has still yet to arrive in Base Camp. Organized by Seven Summit Treks, the expedition will include nearly 60 people: a team of 28 Sherpa experts, plus an additional 30 clients and professional mountaineers, including the Spanish climber Sergi Mingote, co-leader of the Sherpas together with Chhang Dawa Sherpa; Spanish climber Juan Pablo Mohr; the duo of Romanian Alex Gavan (who has already climbed seven 8,000rs) and the Italian Tamara Lunger (who participated in the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat, but stopped 70 meters short of the summit; she was also the second Italian woman to climb K2 without oxygen, and has partnered with Simone Moro on many other winter expeditions); the controversial polar explorer Colin O’ Brady; and Polish climber Magdalena Gorzowska, a former Olympic sprinter, with mountaineering experience including Aconcagua, Everest with O2, and Manaslu without O2.

Finally, rounding out the expeditions will be Nirmal “Nims” Purja and his Himalayan Elite team. Nims is a former Nepalese gurkha who last year completed all 14 8,000-meter peaks in just six months, with a mix of military-style strategy (like using helicopters for fast transfers between Base Camps), supplementary oxygen, Sherpas to fix ropes, and, of course, incredible strength and character. Notably, while setting his 14er speed record, Nims played a fundamental role in aiding and organizing the rescues of other climbers in danger at high altitude, often in the death zone above 8,000 meters.

The Challenges

Overcrowding at K2 Base Camp this winter and on the climbing route itself, the differences in the technical ability and experience of this large group of climbers, and the commercial aspect of some of the expeditions—all against the backdrop of the enormous difficulties and objective dangers of a winter climb of the hardest 8,000er—add up to a precarious situation.

NIms (left) and his team. Photo: Courtesy of Nirmal Purja.

Winter experts and other media have already raised concerns. Simone Moro, who has made the first winter ascent of four 8,000ers and who will attempt Manaslu this winter with Alex Txikon, raised doubts about the lack of experience of so many of the participants and the traffic along the Abruzzi Spur.

Adam Bielecki, the Polish climber who has done two first winter ascents of 8,000ers, said that he believes “conquering K2 with oxygen is neither ethical nor honorable”—how most of the climbers will be attempting it. Climbers who have confirmed they will be climbing without supplemental oxygen include Snorri and the Sadparas, Gavan and Lunger, Nims Purja, and Mingma Gyale Sherpa, Dawa Tenzin Sherpa and Kili Pemba Sherpa.

Asghar Ali Porik, owner of Jasmine Tours Agency, who is in charge for the Snorri-Sadpara expedition, shared his concerns on the number of support staff and amount of equipment required by a team as large as the Seven Summit Treks expedition: “One porter can carry no more than 20Kg of weight during winter, but I have seen that many climbers of the team arrived in Skardu with 4-5 bags each; so you can imagine how many of [porters] are required to carry all the equipments; then they’ll have to carry oxygen bottles, heating [equipment], tents and kitchen stuff. At BC, one kitchen tent needs 1 cook, 1 assistant cook, 2 cook helpers to serve about 10 people. I’m worried about how they will manage all this at Base Camp, since they have not carried food and supplies in advance. Also, I’m concerned about the amount of oxygen bottles—they’ll provide 7 bottles for each client—left on the mountain. We will see how many of their clients [can deal with] the winter temperatures and lack of comforts there.”

Once on the route itself, where temperatures will routinely be -30 to -60 degrees Celsius, with extremely high winds, the dangers become even greater. The technical stretches after C2 at 6,700 meters, including House’s Chimney and the rocky area of ​​the Black Pyramid before C3, are frequent sites of rockfall.

All that being said, if the weather cooperates and the wisdom of the team leaders prevails, and if the rotation by the teams in the various technical sections is carried out carefully, the chances that someone will succeed this year could be higher than ever before.

Thursday, December 17, 2020

How Much Does It Cost To Climb Mount Everest?

         How Much Does It Cost To Climb Mount Everest?

Yaks carry climbing gear to Everest Base Camp Yaks carrying climbing gear to Everest Base Camp

As of 2020, the average cost for a place on a commercial Everest team, from either Tibet or Nepal, is US$44,500. A minimalist attempt to climb Everest could be organized for about US$20,000. At the very upper level, the private climb option on VIP expedition” comes with the hefty price tag of US$200,000.

The minimalist option would suit high-altitude mountaineers who possess extensive experience above 8,000m, and are used to solo-climbing, expedition planning, and operating in the area known as the death-zone.

At the more expensive price point, the Everest Expeditions Nepal team which climbs from Tibet charges US$60,900. A place on the US Alpenglow team costs US$85,000. IMG’s “private climb option,” which includes a personal western guide for each climber, has an all-in-cost of US$118,000. The private climb option with the RMI team tops out at US$135,000. Everest Expeditions Nepal expedition” with private guide, extremely experienced Sherpa's, pre-acclimatization, unlimited oxygen tanks, nutrition and training plans, and other services takes the most expensive slot at $200,000.

As a general rule, the higher the cost, the more services are supplied, but such a fact should not be blindly relied on. These additional services would contain items such as: 

Higher ratio of western guides with experience 
Extra support from the Sherpa 
Extra bottles of oxygen that can be used at a larger flow rate 
Specific requests for diets 
Larger tents for Base Camp 
More communication facilities 

Provision of tents for pre-acclimatization to be used 6 weeks before travel. 
The table below provides a breakdown of typical expenses for an Everest expedition, so that you can better understand where the headline dollar figure comes from.

Cost to Climb Mount Everest in 2021 – Full Breakdown:

ITEAMS

COST PER CLIMBER

NOTES

Everest climbing permit from the Nepalese government

$11,000

Non-refundable

Application Fee for Permits        

$400

This is a $2,500 government fee for the team, Therefore split between all climbers. Our average team size used throughout these calculations is six.

 

Nepalese Liaison Officer              

$500

A mandatory government fee to the team of $3,000.

 

Nepal Tourist Visa           

$100      

This is the more expensive visa and allows you to stay longer than a month (which you will need to)

 

Refundable Rubbish Fee             

$650      

This is sometimes refunded in part or full if the team has left zero waste on the mountain, especially at base camp.

 

Personal Climbing Gear

$6,000  

Down suit, sleeping bags, boots, crampons and all the rest. This is an estimate: you could spend less, or far more!

 

Airfare to Nepal               

$2,000

This is an estimate and can depend on where you live.

 

Kathmandu Hotel           

$500      

A couple of nights at the beginning and end of the expedition. Estimate

 

Airfare to & from Lukla 

$350      

Don't even consider trekking this, unless you have an extra two weeks!

 

Equipment transport: Lukla to Base camp         

 

$600      

This is all the expedition's equipment. Transported by porters and yaks.

Tea House Food & Lodgings on Trek to Base camp          

 

$350      

Usually an 8 day trek.

 

 

Food & fuel (for water & cooking) above Base camp         

 

 

$750      

 

 

Estimate

 

Personal Tent at Base camp        

$400      

 

These tents are comfortable and important.

 

Food at Base camp for four weeks  

$2,500  

You will be in and out of Base camp, but will spend around 4 weeks there in total. All food has to be carried up the valleys from lowland villages, or flown in on helicopters. Then Sherpa staffs have to prepare it.

 

Everest ER Fee 

$100      

This covers unlimited visits to the base camp doctors and supports their work.

 

Rope Fixing Fee               

$750      

This pays for the rope (3,000m) and the Sherpa staff to carry and fix it all. All teams pitch in.

 

Oxygen Tanks   

$5,000  

10 tanks @ $500 each. 6 for the climber and 4 for their climbing   Sherpa.

 

Oxygen Mask & Regulator          

$2,000  

One set for the climber and one set for the climbing Sherpa. These are rented.

 

Transport of Oxygen     

$1,000

Transport of the oxygen tanks to Camp 4, the Balcony and the South Summit

 

Mountain Tents               

$3,000  

Tents at Camps 1, 2, 3 & 4. Mess tent & cooking tent at Camp 2. Toilet tents at Camp 2. Many tents are destroyed each expedition by wind and storms.

 

Load Sherpa      

$3,000  

These Sherpa assist in carrying supplies up and down the mountain. Stocking the camps, setting up tents and building camp

 

Sherpa Cooks   

$2,000  

Our top Sherpa chef will run the base camp kitchen, assisted by two kitchen assistants. Additionally, we will have a second Sherpa cook at Camp 2 to provide food and water at this advanced base camp.

 

Climbing Sherpa              

$5,000  

Your Sherpa climber will climb with you as you ascend from camp to camp and will plan to summit with you.

 

Guide/Team Leader      

$6,000  

The Team Leader makes everything happen. This covers their $11,000 permit, oxygen tanks, food, transportation, and equipment costs (for a team of 6)

 

Mountain Clean-up        

$500      

Remove all tents, bottles, equipment and rubbish from the high camps.

 

Summit Bonuses             

 

$1,200  

These bonuses are earned incrementally as the climber reaches milestones (Camp 1, Camp 3, etc.). Bonuses go to cooks, porters and load-carrying Sherpa's, not just the climbing Sherpa who accompanies you to   the summit.

Optional Costs  


 

Trip Insurance  

$600      

Estimate. This covers you in case the expedition is cancelled late or you need to cancel. Very little, if any payment, is refundable less than 60 days out.

 

Medical Insurance          

$400      

Estimate. Includes evacuation insurance from Base camp

 

Spending Money            

$1,000  

Throughout the trekking and when at Base camp there are opportunities to buy gifts or snacks or drinks. Plan on bringing this, but you may not spend it all.

 


You can check out the latest details for our Mount Everest 2021 Expedition here.